Lagrezette Blog

Britain, for goodness sakes… wake up!

Heaven knows, I love England. I lived there for eight years, I have friends there, I feel at home there. And yet, these days Blighty saddens me. Or rather, the British drive me mad!.

Yes, one can honestly say that the country is in bad shape, as soon as one leaves the soccer stadiums out of the equasion, economically, it is reeling dangerously: the crisis will no doubt be worse there than elsewhere, it could be said because the bubble had been much more overinflated there than elsewhere else. As for the wine counter? Things, rather depressingly, are worse still!!... England, that country of gentility and refinement, is now wallowing in a most distressing mediocrity. Somebody hand me a ‘proper’ drink!

From the Middle Ages to the Renaissance, it was indeed the Brits who, on the wharves of the Gironde, developed Bordeaux wine. Of course, Brits have always called it Claret, that light red wine you thought so highly of. In fact, you still call all red Bordeaux wines by that name. Barton… Palmer… English names are everywhere in the Médoc. Your knowledge of great and fine wines has never faltered. The finest wine cellars in Europe are still to be found in London.

And now you have fallen under the most distressing of all spells, the most insipid of the beverages sold here and there under the name of…. “wine”. I was in London last week. Walking into a  friendly bistro or quality restaurant, where one used to expect to tumble upon  fine French, Italian, Spanish, Argentine and Chilian wines…. Only to take a look at the menu to find nothing but, and I joke not,  Australian wines!

 

Frankly, I would rather wash my steak pie down with watery beer than to attempt to take on the Australians’ ! Seriously. You who, beyond all our ancestral quarrels and scuffles, were always at our side as allies, I’m referring to when it came to defending quality wines of course, I was stunned and dismayed to see you now singing along to a ‘£4.99 – Australian wine’ tune! People will say that I am exaggerating. That there are good wines in Australia. All right, all right, but not many of them -  Clarendon Hills is an exception. But that’s not the one you will find in London. Do you know why?

The reason for which Australian wines are so popular on your side of the Channel is that they are palmed off at low prices. Dare I say it;  they are cheap. And beware: when one drinks cheap wines, one becomes cheap oneself. No one ever savoured quality wines for the price of a pint before now. Times are hard? You want good wines at affordable prices? Come on, I dare you once more to regain your curiosity, your inventiveness! Look for the places where quality wines are made, there are superb ones to be had at reasonable prices. But do not abandon the battlefield and walk up-side-down with those Aussies who know no better, Come back to the old world  - and ride out the credit crunch in good company -

 

Or go back to beer! At least that beverage possesses healthy diuretic virtues. The invitation comes from a sincere friend of your great nation...

In Canada, Lagrézette bets on Charton Hobbs

Since the beginning of the year, Château Lagrézette – greatly appreciated in Quebec, as Malbec wines ride a tail wind there – is represented by Charton Hobbs.

Jacques de la Giraudière, business manager of the Estate, explains the reasons for this decision and the stakes involved.

Jacques, can you remind us of the special feature in the Quebec market?

In Quebec, the retail wine trade is a government monopoly, exercised through the famous SAQ (French acronym for Quebec Liquor Company). It is SAQ that manages and supplies all the stores where people shop for their wine. It’s easy to understand what is at stake: being referenced by SAQ means large volumes of sales. The Even more so since the Canadian consumer is a connoisseur, well-informed and sensitive to the quality of the products. We thus felt that it was essential for us to be represented locally by a high-performing agent. Early in the year, we entrusted our brand to Charton Hobbs.

Can you specify this role of the agent?

Agents help present wines to SAQ, who decide whether or not to reference them. Moreover, the agent has a more standard role as distributor in the restaurant and catering industry. Under an agreement, the estate gives him exclusive agency rights. In other words, making the right choice is essential: the distributor also becomes a showcase, depending on his trademark portfolio. By choosing Charton Hobbs, which, for over 80 years, has been a major actor and enjoys an excellent reputation, we’re counting on strong collaboration and a shared enthusiasm. . Hopefully the future will prove us right. Finally, as Charton Hobbes is present throughout Canada, we hope they will help us develop in the English-speaking territories.…

Will this reinforcement of your presence in Quebec have an impact on the neighboring US market?

We are obviously present in the USA through our agent in New-York, Fredrick Wildman & Sons. But in North America communication takes place very fluidly. The reinforcement of our presence in Quebec will therefore have a positive impact on our wines, mainly in the Northeastern USA, Massachusetts, New-York, and in all those states that are culturally very close to the “old Europe”.

The Charton-Hobbs website: http://www.chartonhobbs.com/Home/

The Lagrezette vintages: when can they be drunk?

Here is one of the great questions facing whoever has wines in the cellar: « When must one drink such and such a vintage? » Or conversely: « what must one drink in such and such a year? » One of the readers of this blog, who has the good taste of owning bottles of Lagrézette, recently asked us this question.

Jean Courtois, the general manager of the estate, gave a one-word answer: « freedom ». Before going into more detail…

My position is simple.  Pleasure commands, not the law. Listen to your taste, make room for intuition… However, let’s start from an obvious basic principle: no red Lagrézette wine can be drunk during its first three or four years. Whatever the vintage, wait five years. For the 2005’s, which will be out in fall, wait until 2010 before presenting them on your tables.

Then, if you have 12 bottles of the same vintage in your cellar, taste one of them from time to time and see if you like it. Consider that there is no set rule. Personal taste alone commands. You like the wine now? Then drink it now! If you feel that it has not yet fully expressed its aromatic qualities, that means that it is too young for your taste. Wait patiently, remembering that Lagrézette wines always have a storage potential of eight… ten … even fifteen years, and more if you please. Never forget that wine is a living product. But also remember that there may be differences from one bottle to the next.

One example: the 2003 Dame Honneur vintage is, when all is said and done, rather young. But just now it is more or less « the star » at the Château.  We all love it. We remember 2003, a very sunny year. It gave us a very generous wine, which is already full-blown.

So let’s stick to that basic philosophy: wine is happiness, conviviality, let’s not get tangled up in overly constricting rules! Dare to be free!

Of course, the question can be put differently… What vintages have the best storage potential?

Jean Courtois specifies, At Lagrézette, it’s generally the most powerful wines that do. Speaking of the latest years, 2001 and 2005 show the best storage potential, remembering that what is true of our main vintage, Château Lagrézette, will be even truer of our two prestige vintages, Dame Honneur and Pigeonnier whose potential will be even better ; The ’98, 00 and 03 vintages can be drunk sooner.

To conclude, don’t forget, if you have a wine that seems a bit young to you, put it in a decanter. You will appreciate it all the more.

Hallow'ine in Lagrezette

                            

Picture seen in Wine & Spirits (october). To read the whole text (in english), Please download hallowine_cahors.jpg

                             Picture seen in Wine & Spirits (october). To read the whole text (in english), Please download hallowine_cahors.jpg

Pigeonnier 2005 gets “Coup de Cœur” in the Hachette Guide 2009

Despite winning a number of awards this year, achieving the “Coup de Cœur” in one of the best known guides, the Hachette Guide to French Wines, is without doubt one of the highlights of 2008 for us. Other prizes this year include the Gold Medal at the Paris Agricultural Exhibition for our Grézette white.

This time, it is the most prestigious of our vintages, “Le Pigeonnier”, which has been tipped by tasters for its 2005 vintage:

“A top-of-the-range production from a 16th century chateau, classified as a historical monument and renowned for its wonderful dovecote. Having been rated ‘Coup de Cœur’ in the 2004 edition, this year the wine once again receives the unanimous recognition of the grand jury for its 100% Malbec Cahors. Deep berry in colour - its nose is surprisingly fruity, despite its two year maturing process. On the palate, you can feel a rare presence, elegance and smoothness, it is a very supple and assertive wine. Another great success for Alain Dominique Perrin to accompany his 2005 Dame Honneur vintage from Château Lagrézette (€30 to €38), which gained two stars for its balance and silky structure.”

These bottles are in our cellars and will be available… in a year.

Unusual! An electronic tongue that identifies vintages

In enology as in all other things, there’s no stopping progress.

We were nevertheless somewhat surprised to learn that the team at the micro-technology institute in Barcelona has perfected an electronic tongue, consisting of six sensors, which is able to detect infallibly, or so we are told, the acidity, the sugar content or the amount of alcohol found in a sample. And then, by analyzing it, to display its age (vintage), the wine variety (type(s) of grape)… and even the wine itself… No more need for experts? Is this an end to those good old blindfolded tastings? At such a level of precision, one can only hesitate between surprise and annoyance. Surprise, for the prowess seems totally mastered. Annoyance, for wine is, first and foremost, a human creation, born of a constantly renewed encounter between the winegrower and nature, and may it remain so! It requires a scene: the soil, always subject to the hazards of the weather, which are uncontrollable. It requires grapes.

Man will do his utmost to have them become fine grapes. And while suitable, top of the line, impeccable equipment is no doubt required in the cellar, men are always needed to keep watch. 365 days a year. The knowledge that is required does not fit onto an electronic chip! Let us now temper our judgment. The laboratory, steered by Cécilia Jimenez-Jorquera, knows how to put forward the qualities of its discovery: portable, low-cost, quick, it can be used to detect frauds in a mixture put together during the year, or grape varieties that it should not contain. After all, samples of our products are sent to laboratories for testing all through the year. This electronic tongue will basically be nothing more than a higher-performing tool for those working in them.

But still, let’s make sure not to let technology stifle that element of creation, and therefore, of inspiration, that gives every field its specificity, its character. In such matters, let us never allow electrodes to prevail over human sensitivity and perception…

In London: discovering Vinopolis

Vinopolis has existed since the summer of 1999. Located under the superb Victorian arches of London Bridge, it is only a step away from Borough Market, which is considered to be the gourmet center of London.  To date, Vinopolis is the only attraction dedicated to the pleasures of wine throughout the world. Each arch is devoted to a wine-growing country or region. The tasting tables offer 100 wines ranging from £5.99 to £11.99, and 30 wines priced between £12.99 and £25 a bottle. (*) Every year over 250,000 people visit Vinopolis, take part in the events organized there and benefit from the recommendations and advice of the « tasting guides ».

We asked Nicolas Kowalski, who holds the essential role of wine-buyer, what place is imparted to the wines dear to this blog.

Nicolas Kowalski: Among the 130 different wines offered by Vinopolis, France accounts for 30 references. Lagrézette appears twice in the circuit. First of all, with a 30m2 space which is totally dedicated to it, as well as to its history and to the Malbec grapevine variety.

And then, at our fine wines table, our customers can taste the Lagrézette 2003 vintage.

What led you yourself to put forward just those wines?

NK: Lagrézette has a very good understanding of the Anglo-Saxon markets, and its communication insists mainly on the grapevine variety. Cahors enjoys very little recognition on the part of the average consumer. The concept of soil is not very well understood here in the United Kingdom. So the Lagrézette message helps us develop a platform to enable the discovery of this special wine, so full of history.

How do your customers and visitors perceive these distinctly typical wines?

NK: They taste the wines on the spot. Their response is very positive. The fact of discovering that the Malbec variety originated in France is fantastic. Our wines are tasted without food and our guides clearly explain that this wine is a “table wine”, “a food wine”. Besides, we will be holding a Malbec event in November: we will present Lagrezette, as well as an Argentinean Malbec, with foods from each region and country of production.

Precisely, in the personality of the French Malbec’s (especially Lagrézette), do you find anything that differentiates them strongly from the “New World” ones?

NK: The French Malbec’s have a fresh quality that is not found in most of the New World wines. And also a better storage potential, thanks to the tannins and acidity. They are more thought-out wines, perhaps more complex ones. This has advantages... and disadvantages. Let’s say that the French Malbec requires more maturity and patience, in order to give the tannins time to fuse and let the wine gain body.

Pourpre… red, white and rosé…

A few weeks ago, we referred here to the arrival on many wine menus of the Brasseries , of the « Pourpre » bottles, red « pleasure » wines to be savored among friends, « on a restaurant table », for instance with a fine beef fillet. The success was very real.

And even better, let us announce the arrival of the white and rosé Pourpre, wines offering both freshness and quality, to be savored in good weather under an arbor or at a café terrace, without having to go broke in these troubled times…

                                                 

Alain Dominique Perrin answers DANDY’s questions

A recent issue of Dandy magazine devoted a long portrait and interview to Monsieur Alain Dominique Perrin.

We met the luxury manager, art enthusiast and of course... winegrower. The reporter, of course, recalled the not-so-distant but definitely bygone days when « ADP » was involved in promoting the Cahors name of origin… Here is the excerpt:

With your personality and your feel for marketing and business, you achieved the emergence of the Cahors name of origin, only to relinquish it today?

Alain-Dominique Perrin: « I have not relinquished the name! Château Lagrezette is still the leading vintage of that name, some are kind enough to say « the great vintage of Cahors »… I directed and loved that name of origin for about ten years, I did everything I could to make it known and make it emerge from obscurity somewhat, bring it into the limelight There were terrific results: the quality and prices of Cahors wines went up. One day I suggested becoming a great vintage, or at least a first-rate vintage, which would have been possible with the new European legislation, but that would have required sacrifices, doing away with some poorly placed vineyards, and they took fright and didn’t go ahead with it. Today they bitterly regret it...

You won’t come back?

Alain-Dominique Perrin: Never! I’m fond of them but it’s over: I dedicated myself to Cahors a great deal, to the detriment of Lagrezette, which I no longer had time to take care of and which had disappeared from the screen to some extent. Now Lagrezette is back on the screen because I’m taking care of it a great deal. And because so is Michel Rolland! We make a very good wine, which is now internationally acknowledged as the best French Malbec, by the Argentineans, the Americans, the British… Today, I’m taking a great deal of care of my wine, I achieve superior quality and I’m reaping the fruits. I gave Cahors all I could give it, they didn’t always jump on the bandwagon when they needed to, especially at the end, and now basta: every man for himself.